TheFootwearEdge

Types of Shoes and Shoe Construction – A Beginner’s Guide

Footwear is more than fashion — it’s a combination of function, comfort, material science, and craftsmanship. Whether you’re in manufacturing, design, or retail, understanding the types of shoes and their construction methods is foundational.

Types of Shoes

Footwear can be broadly classified based on usage and construction.

Based on Usage:

Type

Description

Sports Shoes

Designed for running, training, or specific sports

Casual Shoes

Everyday comfort wear (sneakers, loafers)

Formal Shoes

For office, meetings, events (Oxfords, Derbies)

Safety Shoes

Industrial footwear with steel toe, anti-slip

Sandals/Slippers

Open footwear for casual/home use

Boots

Covers ankle and above (work boots, Chelsea)

Kids Footwear

Designed with soft materials and flexible soles

Types of Shoe Construction

Shoe construction affects comfort, flexibility, price, and durability.

A. Cemented Construction

    • Most common in sports and casual shoes

    • Upper is glued directly to the outsole

    • ✅ Pros: Lightweight, flexible

    • ❌ Cons: Cannot be re-soled

B. Strobel Construction

    • Used in sports/fabric shoes

    • A Strobel board is stitched to the upper, then glued to the sole

    • ✅ Pros: Soft, flexible, fast production

C. Goodyear Welted

    • Mostly in leather/formal shoes

    • Upper is stitched to a leather welt, then to the sole

    • ✅ Pros: Durable, resoleable

    • ❌ Cons: Heavier, expensive

D. Direct Injection Process (DIP)

    • Mostly used for safety shoes and some kids shoes

    • Outsole is molded directly onto upper using PU

    • ✅ Pros: Strong bonding, water-resistant

E. Moccasin Construction

    • Upper leather wraps under the foot and stitched at the top

    • Seen in loafers, driving shoes

    • ✅ Pros: Soft, flexible, unique look

F. Vulcanized Construction

    • Canvas shoes, skate shoes (e.g., Converse)

    • Rubber outsole is bonded via heat + pressure

    • ✅ Pros: Classic look, durable sides

    • ❌ Cons: Less cushioning

G. San Crispino Construction

    • The upper is stitched directly to the insole from the outside

    • No Strobel or board – gives flexibility and natural movement

    • ✅ Pros: Lightweight, flexible

    • ❌ Cons: Limited durability

H. Sacchetto Construction

    • A soft leather sock (sacchetto) is stitched to the upper inside out

    • The shoe is then turned right-side-out (requires expert craftsmanship)

    • ✅ Pros: Extreme comfort, glove-like fit

    • ❌ Cons: Time-consuming, costly

I. Stitchdown (Stitchout) Construction

    • Upper is turned outward and stitched to the midsole/outsole

    • Creates a wide look, good for casual boots and work shoes

    • ✅ Pros: Durable, weather-resistant

    • ❌ Cons: Visible stitching, heavier feel

J. Stitch & Turn Construction

    • In this method, the upper is stitched to the sole inside out, with the right side of the leather or fabric facing inward.

    • After stitching, the entire shoe is turned right side out, so the seams are hidden inside and the exterior appears smooth and clean.

    • ✅ Pros: Superior flexibility and comfort, Superior flexibility and comfort, Lightweight feel

    • ❌ Cons: Limited support and structure, Not suitable for heavy-duty wear

“Though the constructions mentioned above form the foundation of shoemaking, modern technologies and innovations in footwear manufacturing allow brands to tweak and refine these methods. Within each category, there are numerous variations and hybrid methods developed. Today, the fit, comfort, performance, and even sustainability aspects of a shoe can be customized or enhanced based on the end-use, material innovations, or consumer needs.”

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