Types of Shoes and Shoe Construction – A Beginner’s Guide
Footwear is more than fashion — it’s a combination of function, comfort, material science, and craftsmanship. Whether you’re in manufacturing, design, or retail, understanding the types of shoes and their construction methods is foundational.
Types of Shoes
Footwear can be broadly classified based on usage and construction.
Based on Usage:
Type
Description
Sports Shoes
Designed for running, training, or specific sports
Casual Shoes
Everyday comfort wear (sneakers, loafers)
Formal Shoes
For office, meetings, events (Oxfords, Derbies)
Safety Shoes
Industrial footwear with steel toe, anti-slip
Sandals/Slippers
Open footwear for casual/home use
Boots
Covers ankle and above (work boots, Chelsea)
Kids Footwear
Designed with soft materials and flexible soles
Types of Shoe Construction
Shoe construction affects comfort, flexibility, price, and durability.
A Strobel board is stitched to the upper, then glued to the sole
Pros: Soft, flexible, fast production
C. Goodyear Welted
Mostly in leather/formal shoes
Upper is stitched to a leather welt, then to the sole
Pros: Durable, resoleable
Cons: Heavier, expensive
D. Direct Injection Process (DIP)
Mostly used for safety shoes and some kids shoes
Outsole is molded directly onto upper using PU
Pros: Strong bonding, water-resistant
E. Moccasin Construction
Upper leather wraps under the foot and stitched at the top
Seen in loafers, driving shoes
Pros: Soft, flexible, unique look
F. Vulcanized Construction
Canvas shoes, skate shoes (e.g., Converse)
Rubber outsole is bonded via heat + pressure
Pros: Classic look, durable sides
Cons: Less cushioning
G. San Crispino Construction
The upper is stitched directly to the insole from the outside
No Strobel or board – gives flexibility and natural movement
Pros: Lightweight, flexible
Cons: Limited durability
H. Sacchetto Construction
A soft leather sock (sacchetto) is stitched to the upper inside out
The shoe is then turned right-side-out (requires expert craftsmanship)
Pros: Extreme comfort, glove-like fit
Cons: Time-consuming, costly
I. Stitchdown (Stitchout) Construction
Upper is turned outward and stitched to the midsole/outsole
Creates a wide look, good for casual boots and work shoes
Pros: Durable, weather-resistant
Cons: Visible stitching, heavier feel
J. Stitch & Turn Construction
In this method, the upper is stitched to the sole inside out, with the right side of the leather or fabric facing inward.
After stitching, the entire shoe is turned right side out, so the seams are hidden inside and the exterior appears smooth and clean.
Pros: Superior flexibility and comfort, Superior flexibility and comfort, Lightweight feel
Cons: Limited support and structure, Not suitable for heavy-duty wear
“Though the constructions mentioned above form the foundation of shoemaking, modern technologies and innovations in footwear manufacturing allow brands to tweak and refine these methods. Within each category, there are numerous variations and hybrid methods developed. Today, the fit, comfort, performance, and even sustainability aspects of a shoe can be customized or enhanced based on the end-use, material innovations, or consumer needs.”